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Hairstylists say there are many rules they never break when it comes to hair — and you may be breaking some of them every day. By Jillian Wilson  Between bobs, pixie cuts, balayage, bangs, cornrows and extensions, there are many hairstyles that come and go throughout your lifetime. But while these hairstyles may change every few months or years, your hair health is something that’s important to upkeep throughout your life. You probably know the basics of hair health, but hairstylists say there are many rules they never break when it comes to their or their clients’ hair ― and you may be breaking some of them every day. Below, hairstylists share what they won’t do to their hair. Here are the top mistakes. Applying Conditioner At The Roots Who knew that your conditioner application should actually start at your ends, not at your roots? We’ve all been conditioning our hair incorrectly, according to Tatum Neill, the creative director for Aveda Arts & Sciences Institutes and Elevate Hair. “Ideally, it’s almost like shampoo and conditioner should be applied in opposite,” Neill said. “Typically when we have dirt and oil in the hair, it’s at the scalp level. And typically when we have dryness and damage on the hair, it’s on the end.” “Most people put shampoo on the top of the head, and they put conditioner on top of the head, right?” Well, you don’t need conditioner at your roots, he explained. “You have natural sebum that’s coming out every day — the top of your head, the roots, should have plenty of oil.” Applying shampoo and conditioner at the roots is habitual, but conditioner really matters most at your ends, Neill added. Or Skipping Conditioner, For That Matter “I never shampoo or detox hair without adding moisture back in,” said Ash Therese, the salon director and head stylist at The Bird House Salon in New York. “I know that finer hair types, a lot of people feel like conditioner [or] leave-in conditioners can weigh their hair down. In my opinion, there is a product for everyone.” It’s an important step — just like you apply moisturizer to your skin, you should apply moisture to your hair. For color-treated hair, this is even more important, she noted. “Always adding moisture back in, whether it be a leave-in conditioner — I know a lot of people are doing K18 right now, which I think is a wonderful product — or just conditioning in the shower,” Therese said. And that should be a good-quality conditioner, she said. “The two-in-one shampoo conditioner things, I would never use on my client’s hair or my own,” she added. Only Using Sulfate-Free Shampoo “I wouldn’t use a sulfate-free shampoo exclusively to wash my hair,” said Titi Bello, a hair coach and founder of Ori Lifestyle, a natural hair care brand and education company. While sulfate-free shampoos do not strip the hair as much as shampoos with sulfates, Bello said there is a place for both kinds of shampoo in a healthy hair regimen. Sulfates are helpful in achieving a deep clean, which can help with both scalp and hair health, she said. “I’ve had too many clients that suffer from dry scalp or flaky scalp, just low-key scalp conditions ... and often when I ask them to introduce a shampoo with sulfates and when they do so, within a month they find that the scalp issue has cleared,” Bello said. Sulfate-free shampoos gained popularity when sulfates were wrongly linked to cancer, Bello said. Since then, studies have found that sulfates are not carcinogenic. For some people, sulfates can cause irritation (as can any product), Bello said. If that’s you, don’t use a shampoo with sulfates. But for those who don’t have this problem, Bello said it’s a good idea to use each type of shampoo regularly.  Skipping Heat Protectant “Something I stress, like the number one thing in my chair, is heat protection,” said Shantel Keeley, the co-owner of Platinum Salon in Connecticut. “I never style my hair or any of my client’s hair without using some kind of heat protection product.” “Heat damage is irreversible. I’ve seen pretty extreme damage come from hot tools,” she added. With hot tools being so accessible and touted as a way to save time and money, it’s easy to fall into frequent heat styling — but it’s important to make sure you protect your hair before applying high heat to it. When it comes to what product to use, Keely said she often uses Magic Myst, which is a heat protectant and leave-in conditioner. It’s important that you don’t let a heat protectant sit around in your cabinet for too long. “You should always be checking the expiration date on the back of your products because they do lose their effectiveness,” Keely said. She added that most beauty products have a number on the back (that looks like this) that tells you how many months the opened product is good for, whether that’s 12, 18, 24 months and so on. Not Drying Roots First When Using A Blow Dryer “If you are blow drying your hair, it’s important that you think about drying it from your roots to ends,” Neill said. If you dry the ends first, any moisture from the roots is going to go down to the end of your hair and get the ends wet again. This will not only ruin your hairstyle but require you to go through it again with a hot blow dryer, which can result in damage. “A lot of times people don’t focus enough ... at the root level to accomplish their style,” Neill said. Skimping On Product Quality While you can, of course, find affordable, well-made hair tools, Therese said price can sometimes reflect the quality of an item (like with anything). “I’ve seen many clients come in who have bought the, you know, $15, $20 blow dry brush and the plates get so hot and the air is coming through the plate [and] it’s causing significant breakage,” Therese said. “I just always suggest doing your research, especially when it comes to hot tools because ... things are priced a lot of times, not always, with their quality in mind,” she added. In other words, if you find a blow-dry brush or curling iron for $15 and the original is $150, there is usually a reason and sometimes it is quality control, Therese said.  Turning The Temperature Of A Curling Iron Or Straightener All The Way Up It should go without saying that frying your hair is not a good thing, but that’s exactly what you’re doing when you put your hot tools on their highest setting. While your curling iron may go up to 450 degrees, you don’t want to do your hair at the high setting. “I always tell people to keep it at 350 or lower,” Keely said. Super-high heat can actually toast your hair, she noted. “The best thing you can do is to try to prevent any damage before it happens, Keely said. Relying On Heavy Tension Styles “I really try to stay away from heavy tension styling that really puts a lot of stress on the hair shaft or hair follicles that can over time cause hair loss,” said Nikka Whisenhunt, a natural hair stylist and trichology specialist at Aesthetics Salon in Virginia. This includes braids and also weaves when the braids are too tight. She stays away from these kinds of styles for both herself and her clients for longevity’s sake. Over time, these styles can cause trauma to the scalp and result in thinning hair or bald patches. Bello agreed with this and said while she used to wear braids often when she was younger, she now only wears them once a year. Why? Just like our muscles, our hair ages, too, Bello said. “Hair ages — it’s not as strong as it once was it’s not as dense as it once was,” Bello said. “As we age, I am a firm believer in tailoring our hair practices to our hair needs.” And in this case, that means taking the pressure off her scalp by wearing braids less frequently. Ignoring Maintenance Whisenhunt said she always makes sure her clients stay up-to-date on their hair cuts and trims along with their deep-conditioning treatments and scalp health. This helps keep the hair healthy all year, whether you have untouched hair (meaning no chemical treatments) or are someone who likes to get highlights or other chemical treatments. from HuffPost
5/25/2023 Why is Rosemary Hair Oil Trending? Analysis of Google search data has revealed that online searches for ‘rosemary oil’ have skyrocketed 135% over the past year in the UK due to the huge surge of interest generated through TikTok. A new finding by beauty and wellness marketplace Fresha analyzed Google search data for searches related to the hair hack, which revealed a 135% increase over the past year and a 695% increase over the past five years just in the United Kingdom. Searches for ‘rosemary oil’ have also gained interest across the globe, with an increase in worldwide searches of 331% over the past five years. The interest in rosemary oil gained popularity on social media app TikTok after beauty and wellness influencers shared their experiences using the product while showcasing the results after around six weeks. “The power of social media, especially TikTok, allows influencers worldwide to share their experiences and knowledge with those who might want to know more about a particular beauty topic but don’t know quite where to start," shares William Zeqiri, founder and CEO of Fresha. "These findings are a definite eye-opener to see just how much exposure TikTok can offer to such a simple and accessible substance like rosemary oil and proves just how many people are interested in natural remedies of haircare which are fun and easily manageable, even if you are a regular salon visitor.” The interest in rosemary oil alongside the hashtag #hairtok has racked up an astonishing number of views. The hashtag #rosemaryoil has totaled 1.3 billion views, alongside #rosemaryoilforhairgrowth reaching 212.3 million views, proving the curiosity of TikTok users in the oil. What does rosemary oil do to your hair? The oil stimulates and promotes hair growth, battles against dandruff and prevents premature graying. It is also proven to add shine and a healthy glow to the hair after a more extended period of regular use. The beauty influencers on TikTok recommend using rosemary oil as part of your hair care routine, not to expect results after the first few uses and sticking with it as you could see incredible differences in your hair's health even after six weeks. How often should you use rosemary oil in your hair? It is recommended if you have thinner, lighter and easily damaged hair, you should use the oil once a week as a treatment. If dandruff is what you want to battle, then use a few drops of rosemary oil alongside gentler oils such as coconut, caster or jojoba oil. It can be used up to four times a week for shorter periods of time. Mixing rosemary oil with lighter oils such as these will help dilute the rosemary oil's strength and work to soothe and nurture the hair while using the natural oils. from BeautyLaunchPad
Niacinamide, a type of Vitamin B3 is found in foods like meat, milk, fish, eggs, veggies and cereals. Here's its benefits for hair health explained by a dermatologist.  Niacinamide is a water-soluble vitamin that can assist in healthy hair growth. (Freepik) If you are suffering from hair fall, thinning of hair and a lot of hair damage, and tried almost all the hair growth products available on the shelves, it's time to go back to basics and fix your diet. Niacinamide, a type of Vitamin B3, can do wonders for your hair health by preventing inflammation in the scalp, enhancing blood circulation and aiding in production of keratin, an important protein for our hair health. Niacinamide should not to be confused with niacin which is another type of Vitamin B3. However, if you have excess niacin in your body, it gets converted into niacinamide by your body. Niacinamide is found in foods like meat, milk, fish, eggs, green veggies and cereals. It is also found in various hair care products. One can either consume foods rich in this important vitamin or apply it externally. "Vitamins play an important role in maintaining our hair health. Niacinamide aka Vitamin B3 is one such ingredient for hair health. Also known as nicotinamide, this vitamin is water soluble and aids in many functions of body such as reducing oxidative stress, metabolizing proteins, and lipids, improve cellular energy and synthesize the carbohydrate to be used by the body. It is also useful in regulating sebum production in the body," says Dr. Rinky Kapoor, Consultant Dermatologist, Cosmetic Dermatologist & Dermato-Surgeon, The Esthetic Clinics Mumbai, India. "Niacinamide is a water-soluble vitamin that can assist in healthy hair growth. Its antioxidant properties can improve blood circulation, and bring oxygen to the hair follicles, resulting in good hair growth. It helps keep the hair lustrous by maintaining sheen and strength. It supports a healthy scalp by balancing moisture and creating a protective layer that enables healthy hair growth. It reduces scalp inflammation and promotes thicker hair growth and improved alopecia," says Dr Anup Dhir, senior consultant, Apollo Hospital and ex-president, Indian Association of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons. BENEFITS OF NIACINAMIDE Dr Rinky Kapoor shares amazing benefits of using niacinamide for hair. • It enhances blood circulation: Since Vitamin B3 is in charge of delivering energy, it promotes healthy blood circulation and delivery to oxygen and nutrient to the hair follicles. This improves healthy hair growth and gives the hair sheen and suppleness by improving hair textures. This vitamin also helps in bring health back to chemically damaged hair.
• Helps in Keratin synthesis and production: Keratin is a natural protein that is essential for hair as our hair is 90% keratin. Niacinamide increases protein production leading to high levels of keratin which in turn gives bouncy and healthy hair with less breakage and brittleness. • Calms down scalp inflammation: Inflammation is one of the primary causes of hair fall in men and women. Niacinamide can reduce the redness and inflammation in the scalp and prevent hair fall from worsening. The hair become thicker and fuller. • Promotes thicker hair growth: Since the follicular healthy improves with nicotinamide because of reduced oxidate stress, the hair does not go into the resting phase of the growth cycle early on. This improves the texture and thickness of the hair, and the overall look becomes voluminous. • Protects hair from environmental damage: Niacinamide has excellent antioxidant properties that protect the hair from harmful effects of UV rays and also prevent the pollution, heat etc. from drying the hair. This fortifies the lipid barrier and if you are fond of using heating and styling tools, niacinamide can help protect it from the damage.  A new study found that trapped stem cells may be the reason some aging hair turns gray. Ever wondered why your hair turns gray as you age? A team of researchers says it has identified the root cause as trapped stem cells — and that means new tips for naturally fending off grays from your mane could be coming soon. It all starts with a type of stem cell called melanocytes, also known as McSCs, says the study, which was published in the journal Nature this week. The research team from NYU Grossman School of Medicine was already familiar with melanocytes. They're the main mechanism that produces the pigment melanin, bringing color to your skin and eyes. That melanin is key to hair color. McSCs hang around in your hair follicles, where they receive a protein signal that tells them when to become mature cells. Mature cells release pigment and, voilà, you get your hair color. But over the course of this study, the researchers learned that McSCs actually move between microscopic compartments in your hair follicle. Each compartment might give the MsSC a slightly different protein signal, which allows the cell to oscillate between different levels of maturity. That's largely unlike how other stem cells operate — that is, maturing until they die. The unique maturity level of MsSCs gets more complicated the older you get. As your hair grows and sheds in cycles, the more McSCs get stuck in one particular compartment called the hair follicle bulge. The follicle bulge isn't giving those McSCs the signal to mature, and it's not sending the McSCs back to a compartment that would. The jammed cells allow the hair to keep growing, but the hair isn't given its dose of pigmentation. As a result, you go gray. To prove this concept, the research team produced salt-and-pepper-colored mice by physically plucking strands of their hair again and again over the course of two years. They found the number of McSCs lodged in the follicle bulge increased from 15 percent to nearly 50 percent. But in the younger hairs, which weren't plucked, the McSCs continued to move around the different compartments, picking up protein signals and producing a consistently rich brown pigment. To be clear, the McSCs aren't the sole factor in determining when your gray grows in. Dr. Jenna Lester, a dermatologist and professor at the University of California, San Francisco, told NPR's Short Wave podcast that there's a multitude of factors beyond aging that play a role. "Some people think sun exposure can damage their melanocytes more or less," she said. "And hormones also play into it as well." Then there's stress, genetics and certain medical conditions, which can all strip hair of its richer hues. Overall, 74% of people between the ages of 45 and 65 years of age have at least a few silver strands, according to research from the National Institutes of Health. If you're in that camp and resenting it, this new study could be a reason to rejoice: The researchers say that moving the McSCs to their proper location could prevent graying. And anyone scoffing at the vanity of stressing over silver strands can also rejoice: The researchers also say studies like this are putting us one step closer to curing cancer. (Seriously.) "We are interested in how stem cells residing in our body are regulated to properly maintain our body and how they can reform the tissues when they are lost by injuries," said Mayumi Ito, a professor at NYU Langone Health and a senior investigator on the study. "When the stem cell regulation goes awry, we will have multiple health problems including cancers," she told NPR. "The melanocyte stem cell system is advantageous to understand this broad issue in medical science, as the malfunction of the system is so visible." from NPR
Following news of a breakthrough in the mechanisms behind hair greying, Cosmetics Business rounds up its edit of anti-greying active ingredients  Repeated shed and growth leads to melanocyte stem cells becoming stuck in the hair follicle bulge Grey hair is a hallmark of ageing, but one that is increasingly being embraced. Recent years have witnessed stars like Andie MacDowell and Sarah Jessica Parker celebrating the changing colour of their hair. Meanwhile, brands developed specifically for the needs of silver strands, like White Hot Hair, Arey and Silvina London are attracting attention. In November, for example, Arey closed a funding round of US$4.15m – more than double that of its original $2m target. But what causes hair to go grey? New research from NYU Grossman School of Medicine, published in the journal Nature on 19 April, suggests the process is linked to ‘stuck’ stem cells. The study looked at melanocyte stem cells, found in the skin of mice but also humans. Hair colour, the scientists said, is controlled by whether non-functional but continually multiplying pools of these stem cells within hair follicles get the signal to become mature cells which make the protein pigments responsible for colour. The study showed that melanocyte stem cells are remarkably plastic; this means that during normal hair growth, such cells continually move back and forth on the maturity axis as they transit between compartments of the developing hair follicle. It is inside these compartments where the cells are exposed to different levels of maturity-influencing protein signals. The research team found that the cells transform between their most primitive stem state and the next stage of their maturation (the transit-amplifying state) depending on their location. As hair ages, sheds and repeatedly grows back, increasing numbers of melanocyte stem cells get stuck in the stem cell compartment called the hair follicle bulge. They remain in the hair follicle bulge, do not mature into the transit-amplifying state and do not travel back to their original location in the germ compartment, where Wnt proteins (signalling molecules) would have encouraged them to regenerate into pigment cells. “Our study adds to our basic understanding of how melanocyte stem cells work to colour hair,” said the study’s lead investigator, Qi Sun, a postdoctoral fellow at NYU Langone Health. “The newfound mechanisms raise the possibility that the same fixed positioning of melanocyte stem cells may exist in humans. “If so, it presents a potential pathway for reversing or preventing the greying of human hair by helping jammed cells to move again between developing hair follicle compartments.” Such plasticity is not present in other self-regenerating stem cells, such as those making up the hair follicle itself. This, said the researchers, helps explain, in part, why hair can keep growing even while its pigmentation fails. The study also found that stuck melanocyte stem cells ceased their regenerative behaviour as they were no longer exposed to much Wnt signalling. In contrast, melanocyte stem cells that continued to move back and forth between the follicle bulge and hair germ retained their ability to regenerate as melanocyte stem cells, mature into melanocytes and produce pigment over the entire study period of two years. “It is the loss of chameleon-like function in melanocyte stem cells that may be responsible for greying and loss of hair colour,” said study senior investigator Mayumi Ito, a professor in the Ronald O. Perelman Department of Dermatology and Department of Cell Biology at NYU Langone Health. “These findings suggest that melanocyte stem cell motility and reversible differentiation are key to keeping hair healthy and coloured,” said Ito. In good news for those consumers not ready to embrace their greys, the team plans to investigate means of restoring the motility of melanocyte stem cells, or of physically moving them back to their germ compartment, where they can produce pigment. from Cosmetics Business
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